SERVICE GUIDES

Here, you will find basic help and support if you have problems or questions concerning shipment, adjustment, service, cleaning and maintenance of your new Pronghorn bike.

 

Assembling your bike – road and gravel


It only takes a few minutes to assemble your new bike. You only have to be careful not to overtighten the bolts.


 

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YOU WILL NEED:

  • Allen keys (for aluminium stems and handlebars)
  • Torx and Allen keys for integrated carbon fibre handlebars.
  • Optional: A torque wrench to ensure that bolts and screws are tightened correctly.

WHAT TO DO:

  1. Unpack the bike
  2. Raise the saddle to the desired height and tighten the seat clamp bolt to 5-6 NM.
  3. See our guide on how to find the correct saddle height.
  4. 5-6 NM corresponds to what you could call 'finger tight' between the thumb and the index and middle fingers.

Tubeless
Please note that new bikes that come with a tubeless setup may lose tyre pressure until they have been ridden for the first time. Just pump the tyres and go for a ride. This should fix the problem.

Bike computers
If an out-front mount has been fitted to your bike we recommend that you always use a safety line on your computer. We do not provide warranty on damaged computers.

Disc brakes
We recommend that you break in your brake pads before your first real ride.

Watch the SRAM video here ➝   



 

NEVER DO THIS:

  • Overtighten bolts on carbon fibre bikes or stems as you may risk to damage the carbon fibre.
  • Undertighten bolts on aluminium bikes as you may risk that the handlebars will slip and become too loose.
  • Wipe off the greasy carbon paste from the inside of the seat tube and the head tube as this paste ensures that the seat post and the handlebars stay in place.

REACH OUT TO US IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS​.

 

NOTE! CeramicSpeed product registration​.

In order for the warranty to be valid it is necessary that the customer completes a registration of all the products fitted with CeramicSpeed upgrades.

Read more and register your product here:

Assembling your bike – Mountainbike


It only takes a few minutes to assemble your new bike. You only have to be careful not to overtighten the bolts.

Read more

YOU WILL NEED:

  • Allen keys (for aluminium stems and handlebars)
  • Torx and Allen keys for integrated carbon fibre handlebars.
  • Optional: A torque wrench to make sure that bolts and screws are tightened correctly.
  • Shock pump


MTB HANDLEBARS & FORKS – HOW TO:

​

  1. Turn the handlebars until they point straight ahead. You can aim at the front tyre with one eye closed.
  2. The fork is positioned correctly when the bridge sits in front of the handlebars and the brake caliper sits on the backside of the fork leg and points inwards toward the crank set.
  3. Tighten the top cap on top of the handlebars to 5-6 NM.
  4. Tighten the bolt on the side of the stem to 5-6 NM.
  5. Pump air into the fork using a shock pump according to the manufacturer directions visible on the side of the fork.
  6. When we deliver bikes the forks come with air pressure but you will need a fork pump to be able to maintain pressure over time.

5-6 NM corresponds to what you could call 'finger tight' between the thumb and the index and middle fingers.

Remember to never tighten the seat post clamp bolt to more than 4-5 NM as this may impact the functionality of a dropper post if your bike comes with a dropper post.



FOR FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAINBIKES ONLY​:

  1. Dial in the rear shock pressure using a shock pump.
  2. The correct pressure is: 2 x weight in kilos. + 20, measured in PSI.
  3. Example: 2 x 80 kilos + 20 = 180 PSI.
  4. When you're seated on the bike the sag (how much the shock is compressed underneath you) should be at about 20-30%. This is measured on the side of the rear shock.
  5. Pull the rubber band back against the shock before sitting on the bike.
  6. Sit down on the saddle.
  7. Read the position of the rubber band on the side of the shock when you're back off the bike.

Tubeless
Please note that new bikes that come with a tubeless setup may lose tyre pressure until they have been ridden for the first time. Only pump the tyres and go for a ride. This should fix the problem.

Disc brakes
We recommend that you break in your brake pads before your first real ride.

Watch the SRAM video here ➝




NEVER DO THIS:

  • ​Overtighten bolts on carbon fibre bikes, stems and seat posts as you may risk damaging the carbon fibre.
  • Undertighten bolts on aluminium bikes as you may risk that the handlebars will not be fitted correctly and become too loose.
  • Wipe off the greasy carbon paste from the inside of the seat tube and the head tube as this paste ensures that the seat post and the handlebars stay in place.
  • Ride a mountainbike WITHOUT air in one or both shocks.

FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAINBIKES

All full suspension bikes are particularly exposed around the bearings and links which is why we recommend having a full suspension bike serviced more frequently than, for instance, a hardtail. We recommend having a full suspension bike serviced twice a year, depending on the amount of usage.

The frame warranty is only valid if they are checked and serviced on a regular basis.

REACH OUT TO US IF YOU HAVE ANY DOUBTS​.

 

NOTE! CeramicSpeed product registration

In order for the warranty to be valid it is necessary that the customer completes a registration of all the products fitted with CeramicSpeed upgrades.

Read more and register your product here:

 

How to maintain your new bike

If you stick to a few simple guidelines your bike will ride perfectly and for a long time with only a little bit of maintenance.

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How to maintain your new bike


Chain, cassette and chainrings

Always keep the drive train clean using a dry piece of cloth after each ride. Lubricate the chain using either a wax or oil-based lubricant and wipe the chain carefully. Always apply lubrication on the bottom part of the chain. Replace the chain frequently and use a chain wear gauge to check the chain wear.

NB! Be aware that you may quickly ruin a brand new chain by using cleaning solvents or degreaser if you don't lubricate the chain correctly again.


Washing and cleaning

Never use a high pressure cleaner or compressed air. Only use a degreaser for the chain if you use an oil-based lubricant. (If you lubricate using wax you only need hot water and soap to clean the chain.)


Suspension forks – Mountainbike

Never ride unless the fork air pressure is correct Maintain the forks according to the manufacturer’s directions.

FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAINBIKES

All full suspension bikes are particularly exposed around the bearings and links which is why we recommend having a full suspension bike serviced more frequently than a hardtail. We recommend having a full suspension bike serviced twice a year, depending on the amount of use.

The frame warranty is only valid if the bike is checked and serviced on a regular basis.


Brakes

Keep the brake discs and calipers clean to avoid unnecessary and accelerated wear. Avoid applying pressure to the levers when the wheels are not fitted to the bike. This may push out the brake pistons and consequently make it difficult to put the wheels back on (due to lack of clearance for the brake disc).


Bolts for stem, handlebars and seat post

Never tighten bolts to more than 5 NM (‘finger tight’) unless specified. Never wipe off the greasy carbon paste from the inside of the frame.

The bolts for the saddle assembly (not the seat post clamp) and the expansion bolt that holds the top cap on the head tube bearings inside the fork should be tightened to 10-12 NM.


Service

Don't forget to service your bike on a regular basis. The service intervals partly depend on the distances and frequencies of use as well as the weather and surface conditions.

Repair stands and bike stands

Be careful when mounting your bike in a bike or repair stand in the workshop. You risk crushing the carbon fibre if you tighten too hard.

 

NOTE! CeramicSpeed product registration

In order for the warranty to be valid it is necessary that the customer completes a registration of all the products fitted with CeramicSpeed upgrades.

Read more and register your product here:
 

Saddle height

The saddle height is the most important parameter when it comes to dialing in the right riding position. With the right position you will most likely avoid injuries and ride more efficiently.

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This guide is only indicative. We recommend testing your riding position by adjusting the saddle height in 1-2 mm increments at the time.

  1. Sit on the bike while leaning against a wall.
  2. Hold the handlebars.
  3. Place your heels on the pedals wearing cycling shoes.
  4. Spin the pedals backwards.
  5. The height of the saddle is correct if your legs are almost straight when the pedal reaches the bottom position when you have your heels on the pedal.
  6. You should be able to spin backwards when in this position without moving your hips. If your hips move the saddle is too high.
  7. The saddle should be tightened to 5-6 NM (finger tight).

As a general rule of thumb the saddle position on mountainbikes and cyclocross bikes should be about 1 cm lower than on a road bike.

You can also try moving the saddle back and forward 1-2 mm at the time and feel the difference.

The further ahead you position the saddle the more you will use the front part of your thigh muscles. Similarly, the further back you position the saddle the more you will use the muscles at the back of your thigh.

If you want to make sure that you're positioned correctly you can have a professional bike fit done to be able to dial in the bike perfectly.

NOTE: FOR MOUNTAINBIKES

Remember to never tighten the seat post clamp bolt to more than 4-5 NM as this may impair the functionality of a dropper post if your bike comes with a dropper post.

Regular service and inspection

Dirt and gunk on the chain is a sure way to wear down the entire drive train in no time. Even the most expensive bikes and chains are quickly worn and if you replace your chain frequently the entire drive train, including cassette and chainrings, will last a lot longer.

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THEREFORE​:

Dirt and gunk on the chain is a sure way to wear down the entire drive train in no time. Even the most expensive bikes and chains bill be worn quickly and if you replace your chain frequently the entire drive train, including cassette and chainrings, will last a lot longer. The fact that a bike is new does not mean that brake pads and chain should not be replaced regularly.

Generally, mountainbike, cyclocross and gravel chains and wear parts do not last as long as chains on a road bike. This is due to mud and dirt.



ESTIMATED TIME CONSUMPTION: 10-15 MIN.


KEEP AN EYE ON:

Frequently: Wear parts and drive train

  • ​Chain: Is it worn? Use a chain wear gauge.
  • Cassette: Do the teeth look pointed or spiked?
  • Chainrings: Do the teeth look pointed or spiked?
  • Jockey wheels on the rear derailleur: Do the teeth look pointed or spiked?
  • Brake pads: Are they worn?
  • Bolts and screws: Are they loose?
  • Adjusting the front and rear derailleurs: Do the gear changes work silently during riding? If your bike is equipped with manual gears you can often get better shifting action by tightening the adjustment screw about 1/2-1 turn. See the online guide of the respective manufacturer.
  • Derailleur hanger: Is it bent or out of shape? Look at the hanger from behind.
  • Mountainbike shock(s): Is the shock pressure correct? (Consult the service manual or website of the manufacturer.)

 

Less frequent: Bearings

  • ​Hub bearings: Grab the rim and push it from side to side crosswise to the riding direction.
  • Cassette: Is it tightened in place and without slack?
  • Bottom bracket: Grab the crank arms and push them from side to side. Do you feel any slack?
  • Head tube bearings: Pull the front brake and push the bike back and forth.
  • MOUNTAINBIKE ONLY: Rear frame bearings on full suspension bikes.
  • MOUNTAINBIKE ONLY: Check the front and rear shock service intervals from the relevant manufacturer. See guides from RockShox here: Se manual ➔

ABOUT FULL SUSPENSION MOUNTAINBIKES

All full suspension bikes are particularly exposed around the bearings and links which is why we recommend having a full suspension bike serviced more frequently than a hardtail. We recommend having a full suspension bike serviced twice a year, depending on the amount of usage.

The frame warranty is only valid if they are checked and serviced on a regular basis.

  • Ride with a dirty chain.
  • Ride with a worn chain.

We recommend using authorised workshops for service. You can also consult the component manufacturer’s website or YouTube channel for information on how to perform various forms of service and maintenance yourself.

Find workshops ➔ 

Washing and cleaning

A clean bike is a fast bike. A clean bike lasts longer, is more fun to ride and keeps its resale value longer.

Read more


ESTIMATED TIME CONSUMPTION: 10-15 minutes When the bike is dirty. After riding in the rain or on wet roads.


WASH YOUR BIKE BECAUSE:

A clean bike is a fast bike. A clean bike lasts longer, is more fun to ride and keeps its resale value longer. Besides, it’s not cool to ride a dirty bike.

We recommend washing the bike frequently. It's easier to keep a bike clean than to clean a bike that has been dirty for a long time. Wear parts such as chain, cassette, chainrings and jockey wheels won't last very long if they are always dirty and covered in mud.

YOU WILL NEED:

  • A bucket and a water hose.
  • A brush or a sponge.
  • Dishwashing liquid or soap spray for bikes.
  • Some pieces of cloth for wiping the frame and the chain.
  • Chain lubricant.

WHAT TO DO:

  1. Rinse the bike using a water hose (without washing it down).
  2. Wash the bike starting from the top areas and work your way down using a brush and soap. (Don’t use the brush on the chain, cassette or the chainrings).
  3. The important areas are the underside of the frame, the rims, the braking surfaces and the insides of the fork and the rear frame. If the bike is very dirty you can remove the wheels for easier access to the forks and the wheels.
  4. Wash the brake discs using a different brush to clean them properly.
  5. Leave the soap on for a little while.
  6. Carefully rinse the soap off starting from the upper areas of the bike and work your way down.
  7. Wipe it dry using a clean piece of cloth. Don't use an air compressor to dry the bike.
  8. Wipe the chain using a different piece of cloth. (Hold the bottom part of the chain between the rear derailleur and the chainrings while spinning the pedals backward).
  9. Lubricate the chain by applying a small amount of lubricant and wipe the chain again as in step 7.
  10. Lubricate all moving parts on both the front and rear derailleurs by applying a very small amount of lubricant and wipe them off.
  11. Go for a ride in dry weather and enjoy.



NEVER DO THIS:

  • Wash the bike using a high pressure cleaner.
  • Dry the bike using an air compressor.

Component manuals

We only use components from the world’s leading manufacturers. They all have their support documentation available online.

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Please refer to the individual manufacturers’ YouTube channels for further information. You will also find guides and manuals on the websites of the different manufacturers. You are very welcome to contact our customer service for further information.



Groupsets for road, gravel and mountainbike

https://www.youtube.com/user/SRAMtech 


Manuals and documentation:

https://www.sram.com/en/service

SRAM etap AXS quick start guide

SRAM etap-systems, manual

SRAM-derailleurs

SRAM Quarq Power Meter



 

Forks for full suspension mountainbikes and aluminium hardtails:

https://www.youtube.com/user/RockShoxSuspension/videos


Manuals and documentation:

https://www.sram.com/en/service


Groupsets and wheelsets for road, gravel and mountainbike:

https://www.youtube.com/c/RideShimano


Manuals and documentation:

https://si.shimano.com/#/

Shimano DI2-series, general guide

Shimano R9270

Shimano Dura-Ace R9150


Wheelsets for road, gravel and mountainbike:

https://www.youtube.com/user/dtswiss


Manuals and documentation:

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/manuals

 

Wheelsets gravel​:

https://www.youtube.com/c/notubes


Manuals and documentation:

https://www.notubes.com/support-center/tech-docs


Groupsets for gravel​:

https://www.youtube.com/user/CampagnoloSrl

Manuals and documentation:

https://www.campagnolo.com/NL/en/Support/download


Ceramic bearings and jockey wheels

www.youtube.com/c/CeramicSpeed/videos

Manuals and documentation:

https://www.ceramicspeed.com/en/cycling/support

Servicing of headsets and head tube bearings

When you have ridden your new bike a few times the headset may start to seem a little bit loose. However, this is easy to fix.

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This problem arises if the expansion bolt that holds the head tube bearing assembly moves slightly during the first rides. However, this is easy to fix.

The headset is the assembly that holds the fork and handlebars in place in the head tube area.

When you apply the front brake and push the bike back and forward there should be no slack around the handlebars, the head tube and the fork.




ESTIMATED DURATION​: 10-15 MINUTES

YOU WILL NEED:

  • Allen keys (for aluminium stems and handlebars).
  • Torx and Allen keys for integrated carbon fibre handlebars.
  • Optional: A torque wrench to ensure that bolts and screws are tightened correctly.


​
 

WHAT TO DO:

  1. Unscrew the top cap (on top of the fork).
  2. Loosen the two bolts located on the side of the stem. (Do not remove them).
  3. Loosen the expansion bolt inside the fork steering column slightly.
  4. (Note: Be careful not to loosen it too much as you may risk dropping the lower bolt inside the fork. If this should happen, turn the bike upside down and shake it gently.)
  5. Remove the expansion bolt and lubricate it externally using carbon paste. This increases the friction between the bolt and the inside of the fork steering column.
  6. Assemble the expansion bolt inside the fork steering column and tighten it to about 10-12 NM.
  7. Screw the top cap back on and tighten it to about 5-6 NM.
  8. Tighten the two bolts located on the side of the stem to about 5-6 NM (corresponds to tightening using 2-3 fingers on the Allen key).

NOTE! If the headset still has a bit of slack it may be a good idea to try and place the expansion bolt further down the fork steering column.

You can repeat this procedure at a later time if slack should arise again in the handlebar and head set area.


 

NEVER DO THIS:

  • Overtighten bolts on carbon fibre bikes or stems as you may risk to damage the carbon fibre.
  • Undertighten bolts on aluminium bikes as you may risk that the handlebars will not be fitted correctly and become too loose.
  • Wipe off the greasy carbon paste from the inside of the seat tube and the head tube as this pastes ensures that the seat and the handlebars stay in place.

REACH OUT TO US IF YOU’RE IN DOUBT

Tubeless maintenance

If you follow these few, simple tips from our mechanics your tubeless setup will run well for a long time.

Read more
  • Upon delivery: Remember to check the tyre pressure. We pump the tyres extra hard when installing the system.
  • In case of puncture: Use a plug if the tubeless sealant doesn’t fix the puncture automatically. In case of larger punctures you can install a normal inner tube. However, this requires that you remove the tubeless valve from the rim.
  • In case of a slow puncture between rides: Inflate the tyre hard and leave it for a while. Try adding sealant (see the next step).
  • Adding sealant: Shake the tyre and listen to find out if there’s sealant inside the tyre. If not, you can replenish the sealant according to the instructions of the particular tubeless sealant manufacturer. You can mix the different makes of sealant. However, this is not ideal.

CeramicSpeed product registration

In order for the warranty to be valid it is necessary that the customer completes a registration of all the products fitted with CeramicSpeed upgrades.

 

Read more
Read more and register your product here:
 
 
Visit Ceramicspeed’s YouTube channel here:
 
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